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Amsterdam to Ā鶹Ćā·Ń°ęĻĀŌŲBoulder, by rail, boat, bus and bike

Amsterdam to Ā鶹Ćā·Ń°ęĻĀŌŲBoulder, by rail, boat, bus and bike

Climate researcher eschews air travel on 8,000-mile ā€˜commuteā€™ to take up INSTAAR position


Climate scientist Joep van Dijk was excited when he received a postdoctoral appointment to the Institute of Alpine and Arctic Research at the Ā鶹Ćā·Ń°ęĻĀŌŲ.

Climate scientist Joep van Dijk near the coast of St. Lucia.
Climate scientist Joep van Dijk near the coast of St. Lucia in the Caribbean. At the top of the page, Dijk is pictured riding near Colorado Springs along Fountain Creek. Images courtesy of Joep van Dijk.

But the good news also presented a conundrum: Concerned about his personal carbon footprint, he didnā€™t want to fly from his home in Amsterdam to take up the new job. According to some studies, a round-trip flight from New York to Europe can create a warming effect equivalent to 2 or 3 tons of carbon dioxide per person, or nearly 16 percent of the average Americanā€™s annual carbon output.

ā€œI thought, ā€˜I have three months, letā€™s see if I can get to Colorado without flying,ā€™ā€ says van Dijk, who specializes in paleo-oceanography and paleoclimatology.

Heā€™d soon come up with an ambitious plan: Heā€™d sail across the Atlantic, then bike from his U.S. port of call to Boulder. And thatā€™s just what he did, in 87 days.

ā€œI arrived by bike in Boulder Sunday, March 31,ā€ he says. ā€œMonday was my first day of work.ā€

The time and effort to make his more-than-8,000-mile journey was considerable, but worth it, van Dijk says.

ā€œWhen I arrived at my new house in Boulder, I met a woman and the first thing she asked was, ā€˜How much did you grow throughout your trip?ā€™ Itā€™s such a good questionā€ ā€” and unlike the usual questions he got along the way, he says. ā€œThe answer is that I have grown as much as I would have in five yearsā€™ time. I would not underestimate the personal development you may experience if you take a slower way to travel.ā€

More than anything, van Dijk wanted his slow-boat-and-bike trip to serve as an example.

ā€œItā€™s not that difficult. It takes a bit of energy, but it will make you pretty happy in the long term to know that you didnā€™t contribute to the (climate change) problem,ā€ he says. ā€œAnd Iā€™m pretty sure that within a couple of decades, all these things Iā€™m doing will become normal.ā€

He took video and photos along the way, and is now crowdfunding to raise funds to produce a titled, ā€œCarbon Dioxide? Thatā€™s Not Right!ā€

ā€œInitially, I didnā€™t want to make a movie of it,ā€ van Dijk says. Then his sister, Puck van Dijk, gave him a present for his PhD graduation on one condition: ā€œIā€™ll give you this drone, but only if you document the entire trip.ā€

Van Dijk started his odyssey by searching online for someone to sail with. Thatā€™s where he met Captain Robert Bachmann, a German man planning to sail his roughly 40-by-15-foot catamaran, Namakaā€”named after a Hawaiian sea goddessā€”from the Canary Islands to the Caribbean.

Van Dijk had participated in a ā€œcouple of sailing campsā€ growing up in the Netherlands, but was no seasoned sailor. In order to gauge how he might fare on a three or four week transatlantic journey, Bachmann agreed to meet him in Spain for a six-day shakedown cruise to the Canary Islands.

ā€œIā€™d never done something like this before,ā€ Van Dijk says. ā€œWe wanted to see if it would be a match, a sort of trial, for seasickness and things like that.ā€

Van Dijk left Amsterdam by train Jan. 2 for Almeria, Spain, where he met Bachmann. Sailing through the straits of Gibraltar to Las Palmas, on the island of Gran Canaria, he passed his shakedown practicum with flying colors.

ā€œHe took me on for two reasons. He liked the idea of a documentary, and was a documentary maker himself. And if need be, he was capable of doing the crossing himself, without help,ā€ van Dijk says.

The Namaka embarked from Las Palmas with Bachmann, van Dijk and two German passengers aboard on Jan. 18. They encountered mostly smooth sailing over the next several weeks, except for some doldrumsā€”areas of low or no windā€”that forced the captain to alter his route, and arrived in Barbados on Feb. 10.

When the other two passengers decided to leave the expedition earlier than anticipated, Bachmann asked van Dijk to crew for another couple of weeksā€™ sailing around the Caribbean, from St. Lucia to George Town, capitol of the Bahamas.

ā€œThat was also a very nice and interesting part of the trip,ā€ van Dijk says. ā€œItā€™s a lot of work to manage a big boat with just two people.ā€

From George Town, he took three ferries to Florida, where he boarded a red-eye Greyhound bus for New Orleans. There, he bought a bike and began the final, 1,400-mile leg of his journey on March 11. Three weeks later, he showed up at INSTAAR to start his new position researchingā€”as he put it in lay termsā€”ā€œHow did the earthā€™s marine ecosystem respond to the meteorite that wiped out the dinosaurs?ā€

Van Dijk has been interested in climate science since high school, where he designed a solar panel with an eye toward fueling his school through solar energy. Undergraduate research in Spain showed him the importance of the geological record in understanding climate issues. As a graduate student, he worked in Switzerland helping to reconstruct the terrestrial climate of the early Eocene period.

His increasing knowledge about climate change inspired van Dijk to begin making changes to his lifestyle. He became a vegetarianā€”a 2016 by scientists at the University of Oxford found that widespread adoption of a vegetarian diet would reduce carbon emissions by as much as 63 percent, and a vegan diet by as much as 70 percentā€”and began to balk at having to fly to conferences and do field work.

Van Dijk recognizes how deeply ingrained luxuries such as air travel and meat-based diets have become in the lives of many Americans. But, he says, itā€™s possible to make changes incrementally, such as by starting with a ā€œmeatless Mondayā€ then increasing the number of meatless days. And he believes that ā€œslow travelā€ is ultimately more rewarding than winging it to a beach for a week and returning, exhausted and harried.

ā€œMy own trip took 87 days. There is a lot of stuff to be seen between Boulder and the Mediterranean,ā€ he says. ā€œIf you take a plane to the other side of the world, apart from the fact that itā€™s completely unnatural and you have no time to adapt, you also miss everything in between.ā€

A transition to slower travel would require fundamental shifts in how Americans work, he acknowledges, including shorter hours and more vacation time. But thatā€™s all to the good, van Dijk says.

ā€œIn Scandinavia, there are 30-hour work weeks, and productivity actually goes up,ā€ he says. ā€œAnd especially in the U.S., we must leave behind the two-week (vacation time); it must become at least six weeks.ā€

In the end, he says, taking personal action to mitigate climate change will make us happier.

ā€œAs a geologist, Iā€™m trained to think in terms of 50 or 60 million years. Of course, I care about my own life, and I take pleasure in life once in a while,ā€ he says.

ā€œBut when you look at your own life and try to make sustainable choices, that will make you happy. Because what is the point of personal growth and happiness if you cannot pass it on? Your grandchildren wonā€™t be able to experience the same things as you, and I think thatā€™s very selfish.ā€